Published: May 4, 2016
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Last week in lesson 4 the subject was star trails. We continue that theme this week and fill in with some material that you may have learned the hard way.
Last week’s assignment was:
- Weather Permitting, get at least 20 minutes worth of star trails. First determine what the best starting exposure is, then take 20 minutes worth.
I chose to take about 270, 15-second exposures at f/4, ISO 800 for my star trails using an intervalometer trick that I demonstrated in class. That nets over an hours worth of exposures. But how did I come up with those settings? It was a little bit experience, and a little bit application of the principle taught in the very first homework: namely try and see! But how did I decide what evening I would try to get star trails? The weather needed to be right, so the germaine question is:
When will the weather be right for star trails?
Weather, check. Settings, check. Now what?
Wait, what about the moon? We need to know when it rises and sets. A full moon washes out a lot of the night sky and makes for unpleasant star trails. There are many places to determine what the moon situation is like, but I like to use The Photographer’s Ephemeris (either the App, or the online version).
Next we need to review the Stacker’s Checklist both to be sure we have all the gear and that we know what we are doing. Best is to run through it at home. Is it surprising that there are SO MANY steps? Sorry, but they are there to prevent you from making all the mistakes we’ve made.
In class we reviewed our homework (star trails) from the last assignment and discussed hits and misses. Finally we got to the meat:
It would be foolish to attempt to describe everything we did in class… especially since we have so many articles here describing how to photo process your shots (and webinars and recordings, too – oh my!)
But we demonstrated three things:
- Super simple Panorama creation using “Image Composite Editor” from Microsoft. Yep. You have to have a Windows machine to use it… but it’s free and SUPER simple and more effective than anything we’ve managed to get out of Photoshop or Lightroom.
- What Lightroom is good for… cataloging your images. And what it’s NOT good for: complex multi-image editing – for example star trails and image combinations.
- The three most powerful and useful elements of Photoshop:
- Layers – This is the real meat of Photoshop together with blend modes which mathematically combine layers.
- Masks – Masks allow you to change the way layers and adjustments get combined by “masking” out some of the changes.
- Adjustments: Curves – Curves are the best tool to learn since nearly everything you can do with the other tools can be done with curves… and if you get the hang of it, curves are actually easier to understand.
We also demonstrated Adobe Bridge which is a “lighter weight” version of Lightroom – one that doesn’t require any importing. And we spilled the beans that “Adobe Camera Raw” is the guts of Lightroom. And that Lightroom adjustments are really just like what you can do in Photoshop… with some of the magic, and much of the versatility – and also much of the complexity removed.
We also explained why RAW is the way to go, and why RAW is ugly (short reason: the camera does not see the way we do it just records heaps of numbers).
We did not do this in class, but we covered much of the ground:
Top Six Questions We Answered About Lightroom
- If I use Lightroom to catalog and organize my images (keywords, etc) am I forever wedded to Lightroom?
Practically, yes. We used to use Picasa and did our organizing and cataloging there…. unfortunately Picasa was discontinued and Lightroom had no way to import the data. If you stop paying for your Lightroom Cloud edition, you may be stuck as we do not know of a tool that can digest your Lightroom catalog. SOLUTION: BUY Lightroom, don’t just subscribe. This is not so true about Photoshop, by the way, many tools can import Photoshop files.
- Is there anything particularly painful about Lightroom I should beware of?
Yes. Lots! When your image library gets large, managing images is unwieldy, especially if you want to use multiple computers and multiple storage devices to hold those images.
- Is Lightroom good for Night Photography images? Not particularly. Most of the power of manipulating night images is found in Photoshop (averaging, stacking, compositing). Photoshop can not composite images, for example.
- Is Lightroom hard to use? Yes. No. Maybe. We think it is powerful and much easier to use than Photoshop. But there is still lots of learning and ample room to do the wrong thing.
- Should I import everything I shoot?
Yes… and No. The smaller the image library the easier it is to keep organized. Of course if you delete the very images you later want you will have paid a price for your anti-hoarding behavior. We do believe it is reasonable to throw away .JPGs if you are keeping the RAW files. And those fringe images that you are likely to never use – well you are likely to never need them.
- Can I do everything in Photoshop that I can in Lightroom? Yes, mostly. Photoshop has no image organization tools, but yes, you can make all the adjustments in Photoshop that you can do in Lightroom… only it will be harder to do and may be harder to apply to multiple images at once.
What Are the Top 4 Things to Know About Photoshop?
- Photoshop is the lingua franca of photo editors. Nearly every other tool does not come close in the level of acceptance and use… but that does not mean Photoshop is the best tool. Remember how VHS beat Beta? These days video tape is hardly even used! Photoshop has been around a long time and has a LOT of baggage. Photoshop is built to do a lot of things way beyond photo editing (scientific analysis, animation, typography to name a few). Because Photoshop has been around so long, the tooling is unnatural . We started with Paint Shop Pro and found it much, much less confusing.
- Is there an alternative to Photoshop?
Yes, there is the free Gimp, and many others. Unfortunately as we have noted above, those tools are not as widely used so getting help with them is harder.
- Do you have any suggestions on what I should learn first?
Why yes, thanks for asking. We have a series of articles on that: We call the series “The Most Used Image Editing Techniques” and it comes in three parts: Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3. The one we used the most is the “Simple Astrophotography” Trick to reduce noise. We also like this trick to select a foreground (it’s used in the video above) and use it a lot.
- Fire up Photoshop and try to duplicate this image:
Super big hint… all the file you need and the process to accomplish the task is described in this article: Foreground-o-Matic.
- Use the same technique on your own image(s) to pick a more interesting foreground image from a “stack” (sequence) of images.
Feel free to comment below if you know the answers to the questions we asked in the first image above. We will reveal the answers in the next article.