Tag Archives: gear

Resources for Astrophotography

Original Publication: Oct 12, 2011
Last Revised: Nov 9, 2017

Local Stores (San Francisco Bay Area)

Orion Telescope Center

10555 S De Anza Blvd
Ste 105; Cupertino, CA 95014
(408) 255-8770

Mon-Sat 10 am – 5:30 pm
Sun 12 pm – 5 pm

Equipment Recommendations

There is a lot of gear out there and a lot of thought about what is good / better / best.  For the purpose of my recommendations I’m assuming your interest is primarily Astrophotography and primarily based around using a telephoto lens or a small/lightweight telescope attached to a DSLR. Of course you might succumb to a small telescope. Most of my recommendations are based on personal experience. Some are based on observations of people much wiser than me.  If you decide to get a mount, here are representative alternatives.


Before we dive into conventional mounts, however, lets take a look a well featured, light-weight solutions.

Approach A: Good, Light and Portable


AstroTrac TT320X-AG – photo from AstroTrac site.

Since, portable, inexpensive and stable do not all fit into the same category the best solution is the AstroTrac. It is light, well made and moderately priced (from $546 to $1,959 depending on the package – not including shipping). You will be limited to using the AstroTrac with a telephoto lens on a camera unless you buy some dubious additions to turn the AstroTrac into a big scale solution – but since you’re reading this that is probably what you intended anyway. Be sure to get the Polar Scope as it is difficult to align without it! This mount will track at Lunar, Sidereal or Solar rate!  While $546 might sound expensive, for the light weight versatility it’s hard to beat. For a video and more information, see the manufacturer’s page.

Pros: Total schlep weight (tripod, heads, polar scope, battery, AstroTrac) is about 12 pounds (less if you have a lighter tripod); setup is pretty easy; accurate tracking;  maximum load is 33 pound; stops automatically to prevent damage.

Cons: Limited weight; repointing at a different object may compromise the alignment;  2 hours tracking before reset; single drive solution.

Orion Astrophotography Bundle

A possible solution – much cheaper at $180 but also with very significant limitations is the Orion Astrophotography Bundle.  It is a light weight, low load mount with a single axis drive and no alignment scope. At 14 pounds assembled and a load of up to 7 pounds it’s not bad for very wide field astrophotography – but it will never take more than a single camera load. I DO NOT recommend it. For why, please see my review.


Another product that has caught my eye is the Polarie device.  Imagine a device about the size of  a DVD slip case only about 3 times as thick.

Polarie Device with Polar scope (image from Amazon) – requires TWO heads and a tripod.

The Polarie device costs about $400 USD, but that doesn’t include the possibly unnecessary polar scope – which is an extra $250 – or a tripod rig to set it all on.  Like the Astrotrac, Polarie is light and portable and runs on conventional batteries.  A competitor is the iOptron Skytracker. Very similar features to the Polarie with a few advantages and disadvantages. The Polarie is a miss, mostly in that the scope is expensive, and requires removing the whole face. Once you put camera gear on it, the distribution of weight changes enough that the alignment via the scope is useless.  It didn’t do a good job managing my Canon 50d with a 70-200 mm lens.

iOptron Sky Tracker

iOptronSkyTracker (requires head, tripod)

Of the Polarie and the $400 Sky Tracker, I prefer the Sky Tracker. It’s better thought out.  The down side is you’ll need to remove the head from your tripod and put this in it’s place then put the head from the tripod on the face of the Sky Tracker.

The faceplate only “locks down” via that single screw. I found it sometimes slips. Also there is a little slop in the gearing. The good news is that unlike the Polarie with its expensive polar scope, you can actually mount your camera ON the face and make sure there is room to also use the scope to accurately position things.

There is a newer Sky Tracker Pro available which is more like a “real mount”. Haven’t investigated that much.

The advantage of the SkyTracker over most solutions is that it is light and easily portable.

A Canon 50d with a 70-200mm lens was more than it could manage well.


iOptron Sky Tracker Pro

We have no experience with this unit, however one of our workshop participants managed to make it work well. iOptron Sky Tracker Pro (no experience)



There is even a new contender rising in the KickStarter arena… it’s called Astro: Time-Lapse Motion Control.  It’s not clear if it will be accurate enough to track at sidereal rate, but I am hopeful.

It’s not designed for astrophotography, but if the rate can be set precisely enough, and a simple alignment done it may work quite well.  It does have a built-in intervalometer, though and as you can see it’s quite compact.

NOTE: I purchased one and found it disappointing.


Approach B: Good, Economical

The next bump up in capability is the Orion AstroView Equatorial mount ($250) to which you must add the single or dual drive ($140, recommended) motors for a total outlay of about $390. It’s carry weight is around 31 pounds including batteries but it can handle 12 pounds of payload and you may not need to use all 12 pounds of counterweight. Orion does have mounts in between, but I say skip ’em.  The disadvantage here is that it really can’t take a telescope, there is no autoguider port, and no “GoTo”. But it does come with a polar alignment scope. Tracking accuracy at sidereal rate is pretty good. I haven’t pushed the mount beyond 450 mm so I can’t make final conclusions. One advantage over a normal “tripod” is that the extra weight makes this solution much more stable than a conventional tripod. The latitudes range for use is 18-63 degrees. With some finagling I was able to physically get the angle down to 0 degrees – but you can’t track the RA axis at that angle. Two more drawbacks are that the tripod is lightweight aluminum square tubing with a plastic clamp – it’s begging to fail from overtightening, and the drive motor connectors stick out like sacrificial lambs begging to be broken off when placed down on a hard surface incorrectly.

Approach C: Serious Astrophotographer

Once you move up the value chain you will want to get a “GoTo” scope. This moves you from the $400 neighborhood to the $1400 address which gets an Orion Atlas EQ-G that can support 40 pounds of payload, and costs about 80 pounds in back buckling schlepping to move it around (22 pounds are counterweights).  The good news is a modestly sized telescope can go on this thing – you could even give your toddler a ride. The bad news is there is still plenty you’ll want to buy: an autoguider… and perhaps even a telescope. If that’s where you want to go, perhaps the best bet is the even stronger solution, the Orion Sirius EON 120mm EQ-G GoTo APO at $2800.  None of the above  include an autoguider, or the few miscellaneous parts you’ll need to attach your camera.   If you want a slightly less expensive, lighter system the Sirius mount isn’t a bad deal.

If you KNOW you’re going to put a immodestly sized scope on your mount, you might find yourself in the $4,000 district where a forklift or weightlifting team can help you move the apparatus around. Trust me, $4,000 still isn’t the penthouse suite!

Approach D: Insanely Serious Astrophotographer

Actually I can’t recommend anything in this category because it enters a realm where I’m not willing to go financially. For a down payment on a house you can get a large refractor (or reflector), massively accurate GoTo mount with autoguider, a high-end imaging camera, and a wheelbarrow full of accessories. Names like Losmandy, Takahashi, AstroPhysics and others rule this realm.

Polar Alignment

  • http://www.astronomy-pictures.com/Imaging-Tips.htm#zero
  • http://www.petesastrophotography.com/polaralignment.html
  • http://www.astronomy-pictures.com/Zeroing%20it%20in.%20Using%20a%20DSLR%20or%20CCD%20to%20Align%20Your%20Scope.pdf




A wireless intervalometer the unit at the left can also be wired to the camera directly.

You may have noticed that I mention an intervalometer in many of my images. It is an essential tool for making unattended shooting much easier.  Let me take a few paragraphs to explain what an intervalometer is, how it works, and provide some examples – and reviews – of different options.

An intervalometer is an unnecessarily long word for a timer. A sesquipedalian, if you will. Using a timer is a step up from a remote release cord also sometimes called a cable release. A remote release is a device for activating the shutter without having to touch the camera. Any touch while exposing can cause unwanted movement and motion blur. The phrase cable release comes from the old days when pressing the shutter button was a mechanical process and literally required a button and cable system similar to the accelerator in your car.  Nowadays mechanical systems are rare.

The cable release is often called different things just to confuse people.  It may be called a Remote Release a Remote Cord a Shutter Release Cord a Remote Shutter Release Cord and more. Despite the presence of the word remote very few units are actually wireless.

A remote release cord is very handy for preventing camera shake. Nearly every model I have seen has a nice little feature where the shutter button can be locked down for a long exposure.  You DEFINITELY do not want to be holding the shutter button down for a 10 minute exposure. You will get the shakes, your arm and finger will grow numb and your image will suffer. The very act of pressing the shutter button is enough to start the camera moving and thus blurring your image.  If you are going to take star trail images you need AT LEAST a remote release.  Which one? Unfortunately I can not answer that question since every manufacturer has different connections for their cameras. Canon has two different connectors for its DSLR  cameras, Nikon has 3! A release for a Canon Ti Rebel will not fit a Canon 50D. Sadly some Nikon cameras do not even have a remote release connector.

Ok, but what is an “Interval… whatever thing?”

An intervalometer is really just a remote cable with a built in, programmable timer.  Unfortunately every timer is set up a little differently from every other one – though they all do the same thing: press and hold the shutter button for you.  Intervalometers are very handy for taking repeated exposures of a fixed length for a long period of time. Many intervalometers allow you to set

  • A delay before shooting starts
  • The length of each exposure
  • The interval between exposures
  • The number of exposures to take (up to 99, 399 or unlimited)

Some intervalometers also have indicator lights, display lights and beepers to help you keep up with what they are doing.  How you actually configure any given timer differs from brand to brand and style of remote.  For star trail work, you want an intervalometer that fits your camera model and has all of the features above.

Canon Possibilities

As the owner of 5 Canon bodies: the 40D, 50D and 5DMkII, and two point and shoots. I have bought, used, and discarded a variety of remotes and intervalometers. The one I have owned and used the longest is a knock-off of the much more expensive Canon TC-80N3 model, i.e. the Opteka:

Opteka Timer Remote Control with N3 connector for Canon EOS 1D, 7D, 5D, 20D, 30D, 40D, 50D. Might be out of stock or discontinued.

This particular remote – was out of stock at Amazon when I checked. The remote- has been my workhorse for almost three years. You can read my review of it on Amazon or Epinions. A similar (and slightly cheaper model) is the “Shoot” brand.

You can also compare with reviews of three other models: the Satechi TR-A, the Jenis Wireless, and the Canon TC-80n3 all of which I have used.  The TR-A uses a CR2032 coin battery which gave out on the first attempt to use it. The Jenis wireless remote – which seemed like a great idea just doesn’t work. Though there is a Satechi wireless model that is brilliant at about $60 USD.

If you do not want to plunk down money for a cheap intervalometer, there is a more expensive solution  – at least for Canon. You can use the “EOS Utility” with a laptop connected via a USB cable to control the camera. Of course with that method you now also need to carry an additional cable, laptop and source of power.  And if you’re ultra cheap, you can use a rubber band over the shutter button and set your camera in continuous exposure mode.

To use an intervalometer with a camera you must set your camera as follows:

  1. Turn off high speed or continuous exposure.
  2. Turn off any delay timer.
  3. Set the camera to Manual
  4. Turn off auto bracketing
  5. Turn off auto focus
  6. Set the exposure to “Bulb”

If you are using a delay before the exposures begin, you may need to use a “Custom” (C1, C2) setting. When the camera wakes from automatically powering down it may return to the default settings rather than the most recent settings. Using “C1” on Canons allows you to set all the exposure options so that the camera will return to the settings you want even if the camera remains powered off for hours before exposures start.

One more important point: when you set your intervalometer you will have to leave at least a one second gap between exposures. For Canon, you may need to have a 3 second gap between exposures. Why?  See “How Long is a 30 Second Exposure“.